Monsoon in Kerala-unwinding
on a week end
Rain drops falling on the slow cruising river by your
window!!!
Early morning breeze laden with rain drops, on your face!!!
The stillness of dawn and the calmness everywhere around
you!!!
No blaring horns and sound of traffic, TV and other noises!!!
Sounds romantic and idyllic???
Yes, all these and more are possible and yet affordable at a
small town in Kerala.
Tirur, in Malappuram District is the place.
On a rain drenched Saturday afternoon, we alighted at the
Tirur Railway station travelling by the JANSHATABDI express. It left Trivandrum
at 6am and chugged into Tirur station by 1.15 pm, late by an hour.
But the journey itself was pleasant.
JANSHATABDI offers simple vegetarian breakfast and we are in
Tirur, our destination, in time for lunch.
The pickup van from the hotel, with
Mr. Muneer, the young and cheerful driver, was waiting at
the small rural railway station.
A ten minute drive took us to the hotel. Not because it was
far away, but, as Muneer quipped, the road from the station was one way and
there were already shoppers thronging the many shops in preparation for the Eid,
which is a only fortnight away.
Tirur is in Malappuram, which is a district with majority Muslim
population. And almost all households here have someone toiling away in the Middle
East, especially Saudi Arabia. Muneer continued -there is easy money from
relatives abroad and so those at home splash it during Ramadan.
After a drive through the crowded, narrow streets, we reach
the hotel.
Sangamam Residency is far from what one would expect on
visiting their website.
It is a small, budget hotel, on the banks of a river.
But, it is fairly new (only two years old) and the rooms are
clean and well endowed.
The bathroom is clean and, yes there are fresh clean towels,
soaps and shampoo.
The beds are inviting and cozy.
There is a TV and house phone and enough electrical points
to charge your gadgets.
The most important feature is the window at the far end of
the room.
You slide the heavy curtains and the view is simply exotic.
The windows have big glass panels which can also be slided.
By the side of the window, flows the river, not at all in a hurry
to join the Arabian Sea, almost 30 kms down west, at Ponnani.
On the opposite banks of the river are lush green coconut
tress laden with fruits.
The view is simply refreshing, especially if you are in a
mood to enjoy nature, in all its glory.
The room comes with air conditioner also.
We make ourselves comfortable and then decide to have lunch.
Since it is Ramzan month and Tirur is a Muslim majority town,
it seemed difficult to get good vegetarian fare. But, to our pleasure, we found
a new Vegetarian Hotel (Woodlands), within five minutes walk from where we
stayed.
Without any crowds, we enjoyed the simple but wholesome
vegetarian thali , priced at a princely Rs.80_(yes only 80) per plate.
After taking a nap, we enjoyed a coffee from the hotel coffee
maker machine, served in the room.
Ready for our outings, we boarded the auto rickshaw of
Saju,a young and energetic lad.
Being a Saturday, we decide to visit Hanumanji at the famed
Alathiyur temple.
When we desired to visit Thirunavaya and asked for
suggestions on where to stay, Mr. Jayesh who suggested the hotel had also
suggested not to miss Hanumanji at Alathiyur.
Rains kept away during our trip to the temple (well, HANUMANJI
was already with us, taking care of us)
The roads were awful-most of the places roads had almost
been washed away and it was a bumpy ride.
Finally, we reached the famed temple at Alathiyur after
almost 30 minutes.
It is a Sreeram Temple, with Hanumanji present. The importance
has been given to Hanumanji over the years .During the drive, the auto driver
had tipped us off to the availability of tasty AVIL (beaten rice,a delicacy)naivedyam
(Prasad)at the temple.
Darshan at a Kerala Temple, especially during monsoons, is
real bliss.
Rain drenched temple, with rain drips trickling, and the
soaked grounds, wet atmosphere and the smell of incense and the oil lamps and
the chanting of Hare Ram-well it has to be experienced. By the time we had
completed the temple Darshan, a middle aged lady had started her reading the
Malayalam Ramayana, in a time tested tune, apt for the surroundings.
The reading and popularization of Ramayana during the month
has been gaining popularity year over year.(Please visit the YOUTUBE page of
the author to listen to a sample of the reading of RAMAYANA at
Yes, we got the avil (beaten rice) as Prasad and it was real
tasty!!!!
Of course, we shared it with the Auto driver who was eagerly
awaiting it and was pleased to take home the same for sharing with his wife and
two kids.
You can see more details and photos of the temple at http://alathiyoorhanumankavu.com/abtTemple.asp
Relaxed at the feet of the Lord, we then left for our next
destination-CHAMRAVATTOM.
This was suggested by Saju, the auto driver. We had read
about the Temple –but only when the driver told, we knew it was nearby.
The journey was painful-roads are totally washed off. And to
believe that the PWD Minister hails from that District!!!
It is a SASTHA Temple. For details visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chamravattam
The path leading from the road to the temple passes through
green fields and is very narrow. But, it is simply rustic and hallowed.
The Temple is inside the river and gets flooded during heavy
rains. The solemn surroundings and the river, in full sway, are awesome. We can
reach the temple through a small bridge. As a backdrop to the temple, one can
see the Regulator-cum-bridge.
When we visited, being rainy season, water was gushing all
around and it is at once scary and awesome. But, the temple itself, a small one
dedicated to AYYAPPA, is an island of peace and tranquility. You can feel GOD
in the immense spread of water and in the rains; you can sense GOD, in the
rains, in the water, in the greenery, oil lamps, and camphor-true salvation.
Last March, in summer, the temple had caught fire and it is
being renovated. We contributed our mite (no one asks you for that).You can
also send in your contributions, however small it might be.
Click here for a famous song referring to CHAMRAVATTAHU AYYAN,
by Sri. P. Jayachandran
Thoroughly relaxed and calm, we drove back and reached our
hotel in 45 minutes. After a simple dinner of DOSAS at Woodlands, it was time
for hitting the pillows.
Strangely we were not at all tired. The auto ride on the
bumpy road was no doubt, taxing but the overall experience was relaxing.
Rains soon started-we were spared the downpour when we were
out.
With the song of the rains and the low hum of the air conditioner,
the beds were truly inviting and we soon drifted into deep sleep.
Waking up next day early morning at 5, we were greeted with
cups of steaming coffee by the hotel staff. Running hot water was available and
it felt really good.
Opening the windows, we could take in the early morning
fresh air and the sweet smell of rain. The river was calmly meandering its way
down west!!!
Sitting with a cup of steaming coffee, taking in the morning
air, was bliss
But we had to hurry.
After a shower, we got ready and the auto was ready waiting
for us at 6 am.
Off to THIRUNAVAYA-the Temple dedicated to LORD VISHNU with
a hoary legend!!
Read all about the Temple at http://thirunavayatemple.org/
Watching the rites, one can be excused for being
philosophical- after all everyone has to go BACK TO GODHEAD- at an appointed
time. We all arrive in this world with a definite date of expiry firmly
stamped. And to witness scores offering worship to their dear departed
ones-well this is the strength of BHARATH!!!!-the
firm and loving family ties being preserved over generations with love and
affection.
The river NILA also known as BHARATHAPUZHA was flowing to
its brim. Undaunted by the rains, we walked into the temple compound .Early morning,
in a Temple precincts, especially on the banks of a river during monsoon in
Kerala is really an enchanting experience worth your life time. We went into
the Temple, aware of the fact that Swami Adi Shankaracharya, on his visit, had crawled
on his knees- afraid of stepping on the eight SALAGRAMAS installed there that had disappeared and it was the ninth one that
was being worshipped(hence the name NAVA-meaning 9th-MUKUNDA)
Unfortunately, current day customs do not allow us to follow
that practice nor are we a saint like ADI SANKARACHARYA.
Being morning time, it was time of POOJA and we prayed in solemn
silence.
On the northern side of LORD VISHNU is GODESS LAXMI.
We also offered a garland of LOTUS said to be the favorite
of the LORD.
Click here to visit the official page of the Templehttp://thirunavayatemple.org/
Coming out of the enclosure and going around, we could see
the preparations for the ensuing MASS BALI THARPANA on the KARKITA VAVAU day.
When we contributed for ANNADANAM, the temple staff
suggested that we can have breakfast in the dining hall of the Temple.
The long dining hall is called OOTTUPURA and is clean and
well maintained. There were 4 rows of tables and chairs and devotees were
having the food in absolute silence as befits a solemn function. We too joined
and were served piping hot IDLIS and SAMBHAR along with a glass of COFFEE.
In the rain drenched early morning, having the PRASAD at the
Temple, along with the scores of people who had performed their PITHRU BALI, was
absolutely solemn.
After the food, when we stepped out, we were greeted with
the sound of pipes and drums –the LORD was being taken out for the morning
procession (SEEVELI). We too accompanied the LORD and the other devotees and
came around the Temple, three times, in the traditional manner.
It started raining again, this time heavily.
Click here for a melodious song about the LORD at
THIRUNAVAYA
After waiting a little and when there was a lull in
the rains, we went to the river bank for a magnificent view.
The view from the Temple was really grand. On the steps was
the solemn ceremony of PRITHU SRADHAM being performed by many devotees.
Rain-laden clouds looming over the vast expanse of the river
NILA was an awesome sight. See the photo taken on the occasion.
After lingering around, drawing in the atmosphere, we
reluctantly left the temple for our next visit.
The road is good and in the rains and through empty roads (it
was early morning on a Sunday) ,it was a pleasant experience. Reaching the Temple,
we alighted from the rickshaw and went in. It was still raining. We first
offered prayers at the MOOLASTHANAM and then at the three steps of LORD SIVA. After
coming around the sanctum, we went in offered worship. As in other Temples in
Kerala, the atmosphere was calm and serene. Early morning has, many advantages
and the serenity of a rain drenched temple is to be enjoyed
Click here to visit the official page of the Temple . http://triprangodesivatemple.com/web/
LORD Siva saved Markandeya and killed the LORD of DEATH
here, it is believed. And so devotees worship here the LORD at his benevolent
best.
We worshipped at the Temple for almost an hour.
Coming out, we felt very happy and relaxed.
Back to our Hotel at Tirur by 11 AM .We unwound by gazing
into the river meandering nearby. The hotel staff offered another cup of
steaming coffee and we just sat there by the window sipping nature and coffee.
As we boarded the Train for Trivandrum, and sank into our seats,
we closed our eyes in perfect satisfaction.
Reaching Trivandrum by around 8.45 pm, we drove back to our
home in our car parked in the parking lot.
A real sense of satisfaction and bliss was what we felt. A Saturday
and Sunday well spent-in the lap of nature and with GOD.
Away from the hustle and bustle of daily life, this is one
of the perfect getaways.
How to reach TIRUR
By Train-Tirur is on the main line from Kozhikode towards
South and almost all Trains stop here.
By Road-Tirur is on the road from Kozhikode to Kuttippuram
and is just 60 KMs away.
By air- Kozhikode is easily accessible by air and from there
one can take a Taxi or use Train.
Train Tickets can be booked in advance over the internet. https://www.irctc.co.in/
Pleasant mannered Taxis and Autos are a usp of
Kozhikode.
Accommodation at Tirur-Sangamam Residency is a budget hotel
that is real comfortable. With the vegetarian restaurant nearby, it is a good
place to stay.
Dress code-In
Kerala Temples, men have to go in topless-it is believed that the TANTRIC
POOJAS performed will emit rays and blessings from the idols on the devotees through
the chest of men and through the face of women.
Take care to pack extra clothes, in case you get wet in the rains.
And throw in enough umbrellas.
And stock a supply of cold relieving ointments and pills, in
case you are allergic to humidity.
WARNING
Taking a dip in the river is dangerous during monsoon-you
could just disappear.
Take care of children as they may want to frolic in the
waters.
And the bottom
line-it is real budget friendly and you will feel totally relaxed.
And what, after all, is your aim of a holiday!!!!!!!!






